8 Reasons Your Pothos Plant Has Long Vines and No Leaves

drop pothos with long vines with no leaves

As Jane Austen might have observed, “It is a truth universally acknowledged that a pothos plant in possession of long vines must be in want of leaves.” 

Allow me to elucidate the eight reasons your pothos may be experiencing such a peculiar predicament and proffer solutions to restore its verdant splendor.

The 8 Reasons Why Your Pothos is Growing Vines With No Leaves

1. Not Pruning

Much like the tangled romances of high society, a pothos vine with no leaves often finds itself in such a state due to a lack of proper pruning.

Regularly attending to your plant with sanitized shears, and trimming back overgrown vines just below a node, shall encourage bushier growth and prevent the lamentable condition of pothos vines no leaves. 

Moreover, consider propagating the cuttings, bestowing new life to your collection.

2. Nutrient Deficiency

Akin to the pangs of unrequited love, a pothos vine growing but no leaves may be quietly suffering from a nutrient deficiency. Yellowing or pale leaves bespeak of this malady. 

Fortify your plant with a gentle offering of liquid fish or kelp fertilizer or perhaps a slow-release granular fertilizer or high-quality compost. But take care not to overwhelm your beloved pothos with excess nutrients.

3. Overwatering

As torrents of rain may dampen a fine summer day, overwatering can bring ruin to a pothos long vines no leaves. Root rot and leaf loss are the harbingers of such a misfortune. 

To remedy the situation, ensure proper drainage by repotting your plant in a container replete with drainage holes. Utilize a well-draining soil mix, such as one containing perlite, and exercise restraint, watering only when the top 2-3″ of soil are dry.

4. Pest Infestations

Uninvited guests are never welcome, whether at a ball or upon one’s pothos vine with no leaves. Mealybugs, scale insects, and spider mites plague these plants, causing leaves to fall and vines to wither. 

Address these vexing intruders by wiping leaves with a damp cloth, using neem oil for mealybugs and scale insects, or gently spraying spider mites away with water.

5. Inadequate Light

A pothos with no leaves is a plant languishing in darkness, like a heart bereft of love. Although pothos is known to endure low-light conditions, they do require a fair share of indirect sunlight to flourish. 

Relocate your plant to a spot near a window, where it may bask in 4-8 hours of bright, indirect light daily. An LED grow light may supplement natural light if needed.

6. Temperature & Humidity

A delicate balance of temperature and humidity is as essential to your pothos vines’ leaves as wit and grace are to a perfect retort. Maintain temperatures between 60°F and 80°F (15°C to 27°C), avoiding drafts and sudden fluctuations. 

Humidity levels between 40-60% are preferable, which can be achieved using a humidifier or a pebble tray.

7. Root Bound

A pothos plant long vines with no leaves may be constrained by its roots, much like societal expectations limit the choices of our dear protagonists.

Examine the plant’s roots for signs of being root-bound, and if necessary, repot your pothos into a larger container with fresh, well-draining soil. Gently loosen the root ball before planting, and water thoroughly.

8. Diseases

The specter of disease casts a shadow over even the hardiest pothos long stem not leaves. Bacterial and fungal infections can lead to leaf yellowing, wilting, and loss. 

Prevent these afflictions by ensuring proper air circulation, avoiding overwatering, and promptly removing affected leaves. 

If an infection is suspected, apply a fungicide or bactericide according to the product’s instructions and monitor the plant vigilantly for signs of recurring infection.


POTHOS (EPIPREMNUM AUREUM) DISEASES: IDENTIFICATION AND CONTROL IN COMMERCIAL GREENHOUSE PRODUCTION. (n.d.). Retrieved March 6, 2023, from https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/PP340

N. (2023, March 24). 8 Reasons for a Pothos Vine With No Leaves + Easy Solutions. Nature of Home. https://natureofhome.com/pothos-vine-with-no-leaves/

Pothos Trailing: How To Get Your Pothos To Trail Faster

a pothos plant trailing

Pothos are excellent houseplants. We wanted to share this article by Nature of Home because it teaches you how to get them to trail and look beautiful!

Adding trailing houseplants to your home decor is becoming more and more popular. If you want to create a rustic cottage look in your home, trailing plants are for you! One of the easiest and low-maintenance houseplants to do this with is Pothos. Its fast-growing vines will soon take over your furniture and walls.

But what if your Pothos doesn’t seem to trail, or it’s simply not looking how you want it to? Encouraging your Pothos trailing is effortless once you give it the right care and conditions.

Do Pothos Plants Always Trail?

trailing pothos plants in kitchen

If you’ve ever seen a beautiful, mature Golden Pothos (Epipremnum Aureum) in the wild, with massive leaves and stunning variegation,  you will have noticed that it’s almost always climbing up on something; trees, buildings, or even rocks! The Pothos plants grow something called aerial roots, which are small ‘air’ roots used by the plant to attach to surrounding objects and climb up. 

Does that mean we can conclude that Pothos are strictly climbing plants? Not exactly. When there is nothing to climb onto, Pothos will happily trail down. As trailing plants, their vines can reach 40ft in length.

As the plant ages and matures, it will naturally look for something to climb, even when grown indoors. But, if no support is available, it will start to trail down and reward you with fast-growing, long vines. Like the common houseplant Philodendron, Pothos plants can be grown trailing and climbing.

When grown as indoor plants, you will find many different types of Pothos. The most common pothos variety is the yellow-variegated Golden Pothos, also known by its common name: Devil’s Ivy. Other equally beautiful varieties are Neon Pothos, named after its neon green leaves, and Satin Pothos, with specks of silver. Further, you can find Pearls ‘n Jade Pothos with white variegation or Jade Pothos, which is plain and green.

7 Ways: How To Get Pothos to Trail Faster

If your Pothos seems to grow slowly and you want it to start trailing, there are a few ways you can encourage your plant to grow longer vines. 

The most crucial part is that the plant is in good health and gets the right conditions to thrive. Luckily, Pothos care is easy, and promoting healthy growth is as easy as providing the right conditions.

1. Your Pothos Well-Hydrated

watering a pothos plant

To grow and thrive, all plants require ample amounts of water. When you give your Pothos too little water, its leaves may curl, turn yellow, and eventually stop growing

On the other end, overwatering can cause your plant’s roots to rot, leading to death. Maintaining a good watering schedule ensures your Pothos remains healthy and happy. 

Allow the top inch or two of your Pothos’ soil to dry out between watering. Allowing only the top to dry out helps to keep the soil slightly moist but never waterlogged. This way, the roots will always have access to sufficient moisture, but they are never getting suffocated by too much water.

Pots with drainage holes in the bottom will help prevent overwatering your plant. These holes allow any excess water to drain out of the pot, which prevents the roots from sitting in moisture for too long and suffocating. 

2. Give Your Pothos Plenty Of Light

pothos with light shining on a wood table.

You may have heard that Pothos are low-light plants, and while this is partly true, you will always want to ensure that your plants receive enough light to photosynthesize and produce energy.

When you place your Pothos in low light conditions, it will not be able to create enough energy to grow well. This is why you often see low variegation, small new leaves, and leggy stems on Pothos in dark corners.

Too much direct sunlight can cause burnt leaves, so protect your Pothos against harsh direct light.

Giving your Pothos bright indirect light will allow it to grow fast and put out healthy, strong leaves! Additionally, when placed in brightly lit conditions, variegated varieties such as Marble Queen Pothos will have brighter, stronger variegation. 

3. Encourage Trailing With Pruning

showing pothos pruning with scissors

Pruning your houseplants will encourage them to put out new leaves faster and promotes bushier, fuller growth on your plants.

Also, remove dead leaves regularly so the plant won’t waste energy sustaining dead foliage and focus all of its resources on new growth. 

When cutting your Pothos, cut right below a leaf node. A node is the thick, dense part of the stem where aerial roots grow. It’s also where the new leaf will sprout! You can use the cut ends of the trailing vines for propagating!

Simply stick the stem cuttings into a vessel of water and refresh the water once a week. Ensure that at least one node is submerged in water and place the propagation in bright indirect sunlight. Soon, you will see roots growing! 

4. Fertilize Your Pothos As Needed

showing plant growth with pothos fertilizer

Sustaining all leaves, an extensive, big root system, and growing leaves all take a lot of building blocks. Pothos is a plant that doesn’t need much additional feeding, as it can grow very well on minimal nutrients. Naturally, they grow in a poor, nutrient-deficient soil type. 

But at some point, even Pothos can benefit from some extra help. Fertilizing your plant regularly will help ensure it has access to all the essential nutrients it needs to grow and thrive! 

Feed your Pothos once at the beginning of spring to help kickstart the new growing season, then again at the start of summer to give it a little extra push where needed. Use an all-purpose, balanced houseplant fertilizer and dilute it to half the recommended strength. 

Avoid fertilizing your Pothos too much. As said above, these plants don’t need a lot of extra food. Overfertilizing your Pothos can result in burnt roots and even kill your plant over time. Make sure to water your plant well before applying fertilizer to reduce the chances of root burn. 

5. Offer Your Pothos Support

pothos climbing a moss pole

Since Pothos are natural climbers, they will often grow faster when given some kind of support. When you give your Pothos something to climb on, it will be encouraged to mature faster, resulting in bigger and stronger leaves. 

You can add support to your Pothos using moss poles or a trellis. Alternatively, you can train your Pothos to climb up your wall using wall hooks or pins. 

6. Protect Your Pothos Against Pests

When your Pothos becomes infested with pests, it will soon stop growing, and leaves may become discolored or deformed. This happens because pests like spider mites or mealybugs (common among Pothos!) feed on the nutrient-rich sap inside of your plants, essentially draining the life out of your plants!

Protect your Pothos from pests by regularly rinsing the leaves, spraying with a neem oil solution, and checking on your plants often. Isolate infested plants immediately and treat the bugs with a pesticide right away. 

7. Most Importantly: Patience!

If you’re doing everything right, but your Pothos doesn’t seem to be trailing well, it may simply not be old enough. As the plant ages and grows bigger and bigger, it will eventually begin trailing.

But don’t worry. Pothos are fast growing, so the wait won’t be too long. During their growing season, they can grow 12 inches of new vines. But know that this will only happen if your Pothos plant grows in the right conditions. 

2 Trailing Pothos Ideas to Display Your Plant

Hanging Basket

pothos plant in a hanging basket

The most common way to display the beautiful vines with heart-shaped leaves of the Pothos plant is by planting them into a hanging basket and hanging them from the ceiling, the wall, or the window. 

Since Pothos is toxic to pets, such as cats and dogs, placing yours in a hanging basket will ensure that it stays safe from the jaws of your furry friends. Always keep toxic or harmful plants out of reach of pets or children. 

Dangling From A Bookshelf

If you’ve got an empty space on your bookshelf, consider adding a trailing Pothos. The trailing vines will look stunning as they drape down from your shelves! A bonus is that houseplants can improve indoor air quality, which can help reduce the scent of musty books over time. 

If your bookshelves hang high, dust will soon collect on your plants, inhibiting the light your plant receives. When you place your plant with your books, please dust the leaves regularly and ensure that your Pothos gets all the light and water it needs.

6 Steps: How to Propagate a Pothos Plant

how to propagate pothos plants

Pothos plants are beautiful, easy-to-care-for additions to any home. So if you’re looking for a way to add more greenery to your living space without wasting your time and energy, propagating pothos plants is the answer! 

We’ll show you how to propagate pothos plants so that you can create more plants and enjoy their beauty for many years to come.

Understand the Basics of Pothos Propagation

Propagating pothos plants is a great way to increase the size of your indoor garden with minimal effort. All you need is some cuttings, soil, and water to start.

The first step in propagating pothos is to take cuttings from an existing plant. Choose stems at least 6 inches long with several leaves on them. 

Remove the leaves from the bottom half of the cutting, as these will be planted in soil.

Once you have your cuttings ready, fill a pot about 2/3 full with fresh potting soil and start placing the cuttings around the edges of the pot, adding soil as necessary to keep them firmly in place. 

Water the soil, so it’s moist but not soggy, and place it in indirect sunlight or a bright window sill.

Keep an eye on your cuttings for signs of root development over time. When roots begin to form, you can transplant them into individual pots or mix them into other containers with similar-sized plants. 

Make sure to keep the soil moist but not soggy at all times while they’re growing! With a bit of patience and care, propagating pothos plants can be an easy and rewarding experience!

Choose a Healthy Pothos Plant

Choosing a healthy pothos plant for propagation is essential in growing new plants. 

When selecting, it is crucial to look for stems that have at least three leaves and are free from disease or stress. 

Cut the stem just below the roots using a clean and sterile cutting tool. Once you have your healthy cutting, you can propagate it in water or soil. 

Place the cutting into a jar of water for water propagation and wait until roots form. For soil propagation, prepare a pot with houseplant soil mix and insert the cutting so that only two-thirds of it is below the surface of the soil. 

Make sure to keep both methods consistently moist and in indirect sunlight while they root. With enough patience and care, you will soon see your pothos plant start to thrive!

Tip: Use Sharp Pruning Shears

Using a sharp pair of pruning shears is essential. Pruning shears help you shape your plant and keep it neat while allowing you to propagate new plants from the cuttings. 

Pruning shears should be sharp enough to make clean cuts on the stem but not too sharp so that they can damage the leaves or cause any harm to the plant. 

It’s vital to use disinfected pruning shears before each use to ensure that no disease or pests are spread during pruning. More on that is below.

Once you have your supplies ready, trim off any excess vines or stems with your pruning shears, making sure to make clean cuts close to the nodes so you can propagate easily.

Before Starting: Clean Your Tools with Rubbing Alcohol

Rubbing alcohol is an essential tool when it comes to cleaning your gardening tools. Not only does it help kill off any fungal spores that may have found their way onto your tools, but it also ensures that you’re not transferring bacteria or other organisms from one plant to another. 

To properly clean your gardening tools with rubbing alcohol, follow these steps:

  1. Mix 1 part rubbing alcohol with 9 parts clean water in a spray bottle.
  2. Thoroughly spray the blade and handle of each tool with the mixture and let sit for at least 3 minutes.
  3. Wipe down the blades and handles with a clean cloth or paper towel to remove any debris or dirt particles that may be present.
  4. Allow the tools to air dry before using them again on plants or pots.

Rubbing alcohol is an excellent choice for cleaning gardening tools because it is non-toxic and has antifungal properties, so you can rest assured that no harm will come to your plants.

1.) Cut Stems at a 45 Degree Angle

Cutting stems at a 45-degree angle is crucial in propagating pothos plants. Using sharp and sanitized scissors, cut the stem just below a node. 

A node is a spot where a stem is connected and looks like tiny bumps on the vine. 

Cutting at an angle will provide more surface area for rooting hormone and water, which will help promote healthy root growth for your new pothos plant cutting. 

When taking cuttings from the parent plant, choose a 3- to a 6-inch-long piece from a healthy portion of the stem. This will help ensure that your new cutting has all the necessary components to thrive and grow.

2.) Place Cuttings in Water Immediately

If you’re looking for an easy and fast way to propagate your pothos plant, cuttings in water is the way to go. This propagation method is simple, fast, and can be done with just a few supplies.

To start:

  1. Gather your supplies. You’ll need a sharp pair of scissors or pruners, an old glass or jelly jar, and some tap water (preferably room temperature).
  2. Once you have these items ready, determine where to make the cut on the main plant.
  3. Make sure it’s a healthy stem with at least two leaves.
  4. Cut the stem below the second set of leaves, ensuring each cutting has at least two leaves attached.

Once you’ve snipped off all your cuttings, fill your jar with water and place them inside, resting them on the side of the jar if needed. 

Place this jar out of direct sunlight and watch as new roots form over time! If you have a heating mat available, it will help speed up root formation for your pothos plant

3.) Change Water Regularly

Water is essential for keeping plants healthy, and it’s essential for pothos plants. Pothos are easy to propagate in water, but they need to have the water changed regularly to stay healthy.

To change the water for your pothos plant, first, gather the supplies you need:

  • A healthy pothos plant.
  • A pair of sterile scissors or gardening shears.
  • Tap water.
  • A small clear container such as a Mason jar or glass vase.

Then, use the scissors or shears to make several one-inch cuts from the main stem of your pothos plant. 

Place these cuttings into the jar with fresh tap water on its side so it can take root properly. Place the jar in a sunny spot and regularly check to add or replace water.

It’s important to remember that you should change out the water every one to two weeks because oxygen does run out of it over time. If you want your pothos cuttings to keep growing and healthy, give them clean, fresh water regularly!

Rooting Hormone May Help

Rooting hormone is a plant growth regulator that helps stimulate root growth in cuttings. This can be an excellent tool for propagating plants, as it can help increase the success rate of cuttings by providing the necessary nutrients and hormones to promote root formation.

 It’s especially beneficial for more difficult-to-propagate plants like pothos, as it can help speed up the process and increase the chance of success. 

The use of rooting hormone is optional for all plants, however. Easy growers like pothos will often root just fine without it. Dip the cutting ends into a powdered or liquid solution to use rooting hormone before planting in a soil medium or water. 

This will provide extra nutrients and hormones that stimulate root formation and ensure your cuttings take off quickly.

Wait for Roots to Grow Long Enough 

Rooting and propagating pothos plants can seem daunting, but it doesn’t have to be. 

All you need to do is wait for the roots of the cuttings to grow long enough before you can transplant them into soil. This process is usually done by keeping the soil moist and waiting for roots to form, which typically takes just a few weeks. 

If your pothos cuttings are not rooting, it may be due to cold water or incorrect season. 

Remember that warmer water is critical for successful propagation, and wait until the roots are at least 2 inches long before transferring your cutting into the soil. 

With patience and care, you will soon have healthy pothos plants growing in no time.

4.) Plant New Cuttings in Potting Soil   

Newly cut pothos plant cuttings can easily be propagated in potting soil. To get started, fill a pot about two-thirds full with a mix of potting soil, coconut coir, and perlite to ensure good drainage. 

Then, remove the first leaf above the cutting’s end and dip it in the rooting hormone for optimal growth. 

Place the cuttings around the edges of the pot and add more soil as needed to keep them standing upright. 

Water thoroughly and place them in an area with bright indirect light for several weeks until new leaves grow on the stems. 

With patience, you’ll soon have beautiful pothos plants that you can enjoy for years!

5.) Place in Bright, Indirect Sunlight                     

Pothos plants need bright, indirect sunlight to thrive. If you are growing your plant indoors, the best place to put it is near a window that doesn’t get direct sunlight. 

You can also use artificial lighting if necessary. The important thing is that the light should be bright and indirect.

If you are propagating pothos cuttings in water, you should place them in a container and set them in a spot with bright, indirect sunlight. Avoid putting the cuttings too close to the light, which could lead to burned foliage.

If your potted cuttings are planted in soil, ensure they receive plenty of bright, indirect light and water them well. 

Monitor the soil’s moisture levels regularly and keep it evenly moist for optimal growth.

6.) Keep Soil Moist, Not Saturated       

Watering your pothos plant is integral to keeping it healthy and thriving. 

Keeping the soil moist but not saturated is key. The best way to achieve this is to water your pothos when the top inch of soil feels dry. 

It’s also a good idea to poke a few holes in the surface of the potting mix so that excess water can drain out and keep air circulating around the roots. 

Use room temperature or slightly warmer water when watering, as cold water can shock and damage the plant’s delicate roots. 

Finally, never let your pothos sit in standing water, as this can cause root rot. Following these simple steps will ensure that your pothos remains healthy.

  – Consider Using Fertilizer for Growth and Color

Fertilizer can be a great way to help your pothos plants grow and produce vibrant colors. 

When using fertilizer to help your pothos plants reach their full potential, it’s essential to use a high-quality liquid fertilizer that is balanced and applied every 2-3 months. 

Don’t forget to keep pests at bay as well! Once your plant’s roots reach two inches long, you can either place them directly into soil or continue to grow them hydroponically. 

Place the cutting near indirect natural light to stay cool and dry. With proper care and feeding, your pothos will soon be thriving.

  – Avoid Direct Sunlight and Drafts

When caring for pothos plants, avoiding direct sunlight and drafts is best. Instead, pothos should be placed in an area with bright, indirect sunlight and warm temperatures. 

Filtered bright light works best for this plant, as the direct, intense sun can cause damage. 

It is also essential to keep the growing medium well aerated and allow the plants to dry out slightly between waterings. 

The ideal spot for a pothos plant is near a window that receives bright indirect light away from cold drafts.


Propagating pothos is a great way to multiply your single plant and have more beautiful plants in your home. 

There are three main methods for propagating pothos: layering, water propagation, and stem cuttings. 

Layering is the simplest method and requires the least amount of effort. All you need to do is choose an offshoot from the mother plant, lower its aerial roots into a pot filled with soil, and then cover them with soil. 

For water propagation, take 3-4 stem cuttings with at least one node each, put them in a glass jar filled halfway with room temperature water, and keep changing it every few days. 

For stem cuttings, snip off stems at a 45-degree angle below the node so that they contain one or two nodes each. Then, place the cuttings in soil or water and wait for roots to appear before transplanting them into separate pots. 

Experiment to find which method suits you best, and you’ll be a pro in no time!


A Horticulture Information article from the Wisconsin Master Gardener website, posted 15 Jan 2007PDF

Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) Diseases: Identification and Control in Commercial Greenhouse ProductionPDF

Epipremnum aureum – FL – PDF

How to Propagate Pothos – Beginner Guide – Link

Cebu Blue Pothos: Care Guide + Problems to Avoid

Cebu Blue pothos or scitentifically known as Epipremnum pinnatum ‘Cebu Blue,’ is a tropical plant with round, silvery-blue leaves. It’s as simple to grow as other pothos, but its foliage is more attractive. 

This pothos is one of the few plants having blue leaves in nature. It requires little particular maintenance so it may add color and texture to any house. 

Learn about Cebu Blue’s growing and care needs. 

A Quick Introduction

The Centipede Tongavine plant is endemic to Cebu in the Philippines, growing in tropical woods and gardens. In its native environment, this vine may grow 40 feet (12 meters) with 20-inch (50 cm) leaves. 

This pothos plant’s foliage is distinctive. Narrow, oval, silvery-blue leaves. They glisten in the proper light. The foliage has a corrugated appearance because of the well-defined leaf veins. 

Cebu Blue pothos grows 10 – 13 feet (3 to 4 meters) as an indoor plant. This plant likes climbing, so let its tendrils trail or dangle (ideal for a hanging basket). The leaves will acquire Monstera-like fenestrations if you give them a moss pole. 

Care for Cebu Blue Pothos 

Cebu Blue Pothos is unassuming. Resistant to most pests and illnesses. However, it might suffer from improper soil mix or a gloomy part of the house. 

Growing Needs

cebu blue pothos


This pothos plant requires indirect light. Place it in a west- or east-facing room 2 to 3 feet from a window to get enough light. 

Don’t place this plant in a dark or bright room. Low light circumstances will inhibit its growth, creating tiny leaves and barren, leggy stalks. Direct sun may burn leaves and cause them to lose their blue foliage. 


Plant in well-drained soil that will still hold moisture. The tropical plant is an epiphyte. It cannot endure drought and is killed by soggy soil. Using the correct substrate keeps it healthy. 

If you live in a hot area or your house is dry, mix two parts peat-based potting mix and one part perlite. This mix drains well yet maintains the plant, preventing wilting. 

A chunkier mix is appropriate for humid, low-light, or overwatered plants. Mix perlite, potting soil, and also orchid bark. This mix dries quicker between waterings, preventing root rot. 


It’s a low-water plant. Before you water, let the soil dry to 2 inches (5 cm), then water the plant. Pour water into the pot until it seeps through the drainage holes to uniformly moisten the soil. 

Never entirely dry soil. This pothos variety can last several days without water. However, the plant will grow weaker and more prone to pests and illnesses if it’s regularly underwatered. Water regularly. 

Prevent root rot by avoiding extra water. 


Keep Cebu Blue at 65°F and 85°F (18°C and 29°C). Like other tropical plants, it stops growing around 55°F (13°C) and may be permanently damaged at 50°F (10°C) for many days. 


This plant does fine in most houses. Although, this plant prefers humidity exceeding 40%. 

In dry houses or humidity below 30%, leaf tips may become brown and dry. Consistent watering and potting mix usually solve this issue. Alternatively, place the pot on a pebble tray half-filled with water to improve air moisture around your plant. 


Cebu Blue Pothos grows quickly and requires frequent fertilization to thrive. Therefore, from spring through autumn, give it a nitrogen-rich liquid fertilizer. 

Check the fertilizer package for dose and use directions. You may apply fertilizer once every two weeks or weekly to monthly, depending on the brand and type. 

Light encourages pothos growth. However, it goes dormant during winter, so cease feeding this plant in the colder months. Unless you’re using grow lights, but that is not too common for houseplants.


Under ideal circumstances, this plant may grow 2 feet annually. Use longer vines for propagation after spring pruning. Trimming keeps the plant bushy and controlled. 

If you apply synthetic fertilizers more than once a month, cleanse the soil in spring. It removes extra salt and minerals from the soil and maintains the roots healthy. 

Flush soil: 

  1. Sink or shower the pot. 
  2. For 5 minutes, slowly water the soil. 
  3. Leave the pot to drain for 15-20 minutes, then replace it. 


This plant has a quick growth rate, and while it doesn’t mind being rootbound, keeping it in the same pot for many years can produce fading leaves and reduced growth.  So, for best results, you’ll want to repot every couple of years.

When you observe roots through the drainage holes, transplant the plant to a larger pot, and check for drainage holes in new containers. 

In spring or summer, repot Cebu Blue. 

Propagating Cebu Blue Pothos 

Cebu Blue Pothos may be propagated through cuttings. 

First, grab some rubbing alcohol to disinfect the scissors. Some say this isn’t necessary, by why risk it.

Trim 2/3 of the longest vines, then make single-node cuttings. Put cuttings in the water and maintain them in a warm, sunny room away from direct sunshine. 

Once the roots are 2 inches long, put them into a well-draining potting mix. 

Common Problems

The Cebu Blue Pothos seldom gets pests or illnesses. But, if you satisfy its growing needs, it might stay healthy. Watch out for them. 


Mealybugs, spider mites, thrips, and scale can attack your plant. Pests cause discoloration and stunted growth on top of that, these pesty buggers could even kill your plant.

If you fear your plant is unhealthy, isolate it and check each leaf. 

Spray leaves with 70% isopropyl alcohol and water to kill spider mites, scale, and mealybugs. Repeat weekly for about a month. 

Trim thrip-infested leaves from your plant. Thrip larvae live on ill leaves; thus, removing them stops their spread. Spray a systemic insecticide after trimming the plant. 

Yellowing Leaves 

Yellowing pothos leaves are usually caused by water issues. The plant gets too much or too little water. Pests, inadequate light, and nutritional deficits may also contribute. 

Yellowing leaves are the most common pothos issue; to repair it, find the reason. 

Leaves Curling 

Curling Cebu Blue Pothos leaves indicate thirst. If the top 2 inches of soil feel dry, water it. 

Check the underside of the leaves to see whether the soil is dry. Spider mites and mealybugs may curl leaves. 

Dark-green leaves 

Cebu Blue Pothos loses its silvery-blue tint under low light or too much sun. Therefore, this plant prefers indirect light. 

Smaller leaves 

If your Cebu Blue Pothos leaves are shrinking, they may require more light, nutrients, or a larger pot. 

The leaves might become smaller even if the plant is healthy. This is common if you leave your pothos as a hanging or trailing plant for many years. Moss poles enhance leaf growth. 


Is this plant Toxic? 

Ingesting Cebu Blue Pothos leaves causes severe irritations and gastrointestinal issues. Keep cats and dogs away from this plant since it’s somewhat harmful. 

Is this a rare pothos? 

Cebu Blue Pothos is scarce in certain areas. This variety has been around for years, yet it still needs to be found. 

Online is excellent. Most plants are inexpensive; if you’re fortunate, you can get a specimen with fenestrated leaves for less than $50. 

Does it grow fast? 

Cebu Blue Pothos grows quickly, even among pothos kinds. First-month growth is slower. 

Once acclimated, it will erupt with growth. You may anticipate it to grow 2 to 3 feet every year. 

How Long for Fenestrate to show on Cebu Blue pothos? 

Blue Cebu Pothos leaves get fenestrated while the plant matures. In the natural, the plant climbs a tree. Growing pothos on a sphagnum moss pole inside triggers leaf fenestration. 

With indirect light, fertilizer, and a sphagnum moss pole, you should anticipate huge, well-defined windows in less than two years. 

Without a moss pole, your Cebu Blue will never grow and acquire fenestrated leaves. 

What’s the Difference Between Baltic Blue Pothos and Cebu Blue Pothos? 

Cebu Blue and Baltic Blue have different-colored leaves. 

Light silvery-blue Cebu Blue leaves. Baltic Blue Pothos has bluish-green leaves

Rhaphidophora Decursiva Care & Propagation Guide + 6 Common Problems 

Rhaphidophora decursiva is a rare houseplant that has been making waves among collectors since 2020. Its glossy, fenestrated leaves can add a veritable touch of exotic elegance to any home. And although it’s difficult to find, this tropical vining plant is just as easy to care for as its more common relatives, like pothos or monstera. 

In this houseplant care guide, we’ll reveal our top tips on how to help this coveted beauty thrive in your home. We’ll also discuss the best way to propagate this rare species and dispel some common misconceptions about it.

1857 Orgin & Ever-Changing Names

Rhaphidophora decursiva is a tropical plant belonging to the Araceae family. It is a climbing vine with glossy green leaves that have a smooth, leathery feel.

What’s truly fascinating about this species is how the leaves change shape as they mature. When the plant is young, the leaves are small and oval-shaped. But when the plant starts using its aerial roots to climb, it will enter its mature form, and the leaves will develop deeply-cut fenestrations that resemble the fronds of a palm tree. 

This aroid is native to the tropical forests of China, India, and Southeast Asia. Rhaphidophora decursiva in the wild a mature plant can grow to an impressive height of 66 feet (20 meters), with split leaves almost 2 feet (60 cm) long. When grown indoors, it usually reaches a height of 7 feet (2.1 meters), with large, monstera-like foliage.  

Scientists first identified this plant in 1857, and since then, they have changed its name several times. R. decursiva was once known as:

  • Monstera decursiva
  • Pothos decursiva
  • Scindapsus decursiva

Today, there still needs to be more clarity surrounding this plant. Due to its foliage and growth habit, it’s often mistaken for a monstera or philodendron species. 

Some sellers list it under the common name of Dragon Tail plant, which is also used for a species of pothos, the Epipremnum pinnatum’ dragon tail’

But whatever you decide to call it, there’s no denying that this trendy indoor plant will make a fantastic addition to your indoor jungle. 

Rhaphidophora Decursiva Care Guide

This unpretentious tropical houseplant can quickly adapt to the average indoor growing conditions. It prefers bright indirect light, well-draining soil, regular feeding, watering, and high humidity if your home can provide it. 

Most importantly, it will require support to climb on to develop mature, fenestrated leaves. So let’s take a closer look. 


Rhaphidophora decursiva needs bright indirect light to thrive. If your home is too dark, the lack of light can cause leggy growth and the leaves to get smaller. However, direct sunlight exposure can burn the plant’s leaves.

Try keeping it in an east or west-facing room, about 2 – 3 feet away from the window. In a south-facing room, you can use sheer curtains to block the intense sun and provide the plant with filtered light.  


The ideal soil mix for this plant should be rich in organic matter, well-draining, and moisture-retentive.

If the soil dries out too fast, this can result in underwatering issues and curling, yellowing leaves. However, if the soil doesn’t have sufficient drainage, it can become waterlogged and can cause problems such as root rot.

You can use a pre-made aroid potting mix or make your own at home. Here’s an excellent soil recipe you can try:

  • 50% peat moss
  • 20% perlite or pumice
  • 20% orchid bark
  • 10% horticultural charcoal.


The Rhaphidophora plant has moderate watering needs. Keep the soil moist, but avoid watering it too often. 

This plant doesn’t like having ‘wet feet,’ and the excess water can cause root rot, which may prove fatal (mushy stems are an indicator).

Water your decursiva when the top 2 inches (5 cm) of the soil feel dry to the touch. Always use the soak-and-drain watering method for this plant. 

This ensures that the soil gets evenly moist, and also helps flush out excess fertilizer salts and minerals. 


This tropical plant grows best in temperatures ranging from 65°F to 82°F (18°C to 28°C). Avoid exposing it to temperatures below 59°F (15°C), as this can stunt its growth and can lead to root damage. 

You can grow it outdoors if you live in USDA hardiness zones 10 to 12. In cooler climates, you can keep the plant outside throughout summer, then bring it inside when night-time temperatures drop too low. 


This plant can tolerate average household humidity levels. But if you want to help it thrive, try to increase the humidity levels in your home to at least 60%. The easiest way to achieve this is by using a humidifier or keeping the plant in a naturally more humid room, such as a bathroom. 

If your home has very low humidity, you may notice that the leaves will start curling or develop brown, crispy tips.  


Rhaphidophora decursiva requires regular fertilizer applications to support its fast growth. Feed it with a balanced houseplant fertilizer from early spring until mid-fall. 

A fertilizer with an N-P-K nutrient ratio of 20-20-20 works best for monthly applications. For example, if you’re using a fertilizer with a 10-10-10 ratio, you can apply it once every two weeks.  Micracle-Grow also sells liquid fertilizer that can also be an option.


The Rhaphidophora plant is a natural climber. So also, the only way to help it reach maturity and develop split, fenestrated leaves is to give it something to climb on. 

A sphagnum moss pole would be ideal, but you can also use a coco coir pole or even a simple trellis. 

Pruning & Maintenance

Prune your R. decursiva in spring or summer. Removing the dried or yellowing leaves will maintain its looks and encourage the plant to spend its energy on new growth. 

If the vines are becoming too long, you can trim them down to about half the length and use the cuttings for propagation.

Once every one or two weeks, use a damp cloth or a microfiber glove to wipe the leaves. Dust and grime can block sunlight and clog the stomata in the leaves, reducing the plant’s ability to photosynthesize. 


You will need to repot your plant once every two years. Rhaphidophora has a rapid growth rate and can quickly outgrow its container. 

If you can see the roots come out through the drainage holes, transplant it into a pot that’s two inches wider or one size bigger than its current pot. 

Rhaphidophora Decursiva Propagation Guide

The easiest method for propagating Rhaphidophora plants is rooting stem cuttings in water. This method works best if you use it in spring and summer when the plant is actively growing. 

Here’s our simple step-by-step propagation guide.

  1. Take a pair of sharp scissors and disinfect the blades with rubbing alcohol.
  2. Find a stem that’s at least one foot long, and cut it between two nodes. For best results, use single-node cuttings with one growth node and one leaf. If the cutting has two or more leaves, it will take longer to grow roots. 
  3. Fill a glass or plastic container with water, and put the cutting in it. The water level should cover the node but not the leaf.
  4. Keep the container in a warm, sunny room, away from direct sunlight.
  5. Change the water once every 5 – 7 days. This will prevent algae from growing inside the container and reduce the risk of water-borne diseases leading to stem rot.
  6. The cutting should take between 3 and 6 weeks to grow roots. Wait until the roots are at least 2 inches long (5 cm) before transplanting.
  7. When the roots are long enough, fill a nursery pot with a well-draining potting mix and transplant your cutting.
  8. Water the new plant regularly and monitor its development for the next month to ensure it has successfully transitioned from water to soil.

Alternatively, you can root cuttings in sphagnum moss, perlite, or vermiculite. 

Soil propagation is also an option, but keep in mind that the roots will develop slower. Also, the cutting is more susceptible to stem rot if you use this method. 

Can You Grow Rhaphidophora Decursiva From Seed?

You can grow a Rhaphidophora plant from seeds. However, this propagation method is rarely feasible for indoor gardeners because it requires freshly harvested seeds. 

To be successful, you must wait for your plant to flower, then manually pollinate it. After pollination, your plant will produce small, round berries. Once the berries are ripe, you can remove the seeds from the fruit and plant them as soon as possible. 

The main problem with this propagation method is that R. decursiva rarely flowers indoors. Also, the seeds last only a short time after you harvest them. And once they dry, their germination rate drops dramatically.

As tempting as it is, never buy Rhaphidophora seeds online. Most of them are too old and dry, and they will not sprout after you plant them. 

Common Problems

This low-maintenance plant rarely suffers from any serious problems. However, here are a few things to keep an eye out for.


Common Rhaphidophora decursiva pests include thrips, mealybugs, spider mites, and scale. These pests can cause leaf discoloration and stunted growth; in severe cases, they can kill your plant. 

You can use a neem oil solution to prevent severe pest infestations. 

Use an insecticidal soap solution or a mix of distilled water and isopropyl alcohol to treat scale, mealybugs, and spider mites. 

If you’re dealing with thrips, prune the damaged leaves, then spray the plant with a systemic pesticide. 

Yellow Leaves

Yellowing leaves are usually a sign of giving your plant too much or too little water. In severe cases, watering issues can lead to root rot, and leaf discoloration is the first symptom that your plant’s roots are dying.  

Other causes for yellowing leaves include low light, nutrient deficiency, low humidity, and pest infestations.  

Leaves Curling

Curling leaves are a defense mechanism used by the plant to preserve moisture. This could indicate that your plant is thirsty, that the air in your home is too dry, or that the plant is sitting too close to a heating vent.

Leggy Growth 

The main culprit is low light if your R. decursiva has a long stem with no leaves. In a dark room, the plant will spend its energy trying to find a light source, which will result in bare, leggy stems. Move your plant to a brighter location or use a grow light, especially if your home has very little natural light.  

Plant Not Growing

If your plant is not producing any new leaves or stems, it needs more light, nutrients, or a bigger pot. Keep the plant in a room with bright indirect light, fertilize it regularly during the growing season, and repot it in fresh soil at least once every two years.

Growing Smaller Leaves

The amount of light your Rhaphidophora plant receives plays an essential role in leaf shape and size. 

If the new leaves are smaller than the older ones, you need to move your plant to a brighter location. 

Also, consider giving the plant something to climb on. If kept as a hanging plant, R. decursiva will maintain its juvenile shape, and its leaves will get smaller with each passing month. 


Is this plant pet safe?

This plant is toxic to cats and dogs. All parts of the plant contain small, needle-shaped calcium oxalate crystals called raphides. They can cause painful skin irritations and, if ingested, can cause swelling of the lips and mouth, difficulty breathing, nausea, excessive drooling, and other gastrointestinal problems. 

Always keep this plant away from pets and small children. 

Is Rhaphidophora Decursiva Rare?

Rhaphidophora decursiva is relatively rare. It became a houseplant sensation in 2020; back then, it was pretty expensive. 

Since 2021, it has become cheaper and easier to find, thanks to tissue culture propagation. But only a few sellers stock it and, depending on where you live, the price for a small plant can range from $15 to more than $60.   

Is it a crawler?

No, it is a species of climbing aroid. You can grow it as a hanging or trailing plant, but to encourage large, fenestrated leaves, it’s best to grow it on a trellis or a moss pole.

Is Rhaphidophora Decursiva a Philodendron?

No. Although some sources call it the Creeping Philodendron, Rhaphidophora decursiva is neither a creeping plant nor a philodendron species. 

Instead, it belongs to the genus Rhaphidophora which, admittedly, does bear some similarities to philodendron and monstera plants regarding leaf shape and growth pattern.

This article was produced by Nature of Home.  

4 Best Bedroom Plants: Purify Air, Improve Sleep & Add Decor

Since we spend a third of our lives in bed, our bedrooms must be as attractive and comfortable as possible. We’ll explain how bedroom plants can assist us in achieving this. 

Surprisingly, a single plant can significantly improve the air quality in your bedroom. Additionally, you’ll find plants that reduce noise and others that have surprising and enjoyable reactions to light. 

It’s lovely to connect with nature’s calming and restorative effects from bed by gazing at a beautiful assortment of plants. 

Plants: A Natural Sleep Aid 

Plants act as the world’s natural sound machines to reduce noise pollution by diffracting, reflecting, and absorbing sound. Like carpeting, houseplants can absorb a lot of sounds. Here are some suggestions for using bedroom plants to help you sleep well. 

The Power of Grouping Plants

Plants reduce noise the best when clustered together. Place your collection in a corner for maximum sound absorption from both directions. 

Use Floor Plants To Muffle More Sound

Choose a floor plant if the space allows. Such as a Limelight dracaena’s foliage that will help muffle sound, as will the soil and the size of its large pot. The croton’s large, extra-absorbent leaves can also make it a floor plant, even though it is not one. 

Layers, Please 

showing best plant for bedroom decor.

You can use a mistletoe fig that “creeps” across the floor with croton and dracaena on the sides. You could also place a goldfish plant and a tiny Tillandsia ionanlha air plant on a table. 

You could even suspend ceiling plants to block out unwanted sounds. Low-maintenance pothos plants such as the Baltic Blue work excellently for this. 

Note: pothos needs indirect sunlight, so if you have a south-facing window, it could be too much direct light for pothos.

Plant’s Are Nature’s Air Purifiers

Although we know plants absorb carbon dioxide and expel oxygen, they accomplish a lot more than that. 

The volatile organic compounds (VOCs) released by and found in carpeting, cleaning products, and paint can be completely removed by plants from our air. 

One of the most thorough studies of its kind, funded by NASA in 1989, sought to identify the best plants for air filtration. A few leading candidates for the best bedroom plants that purify air are listed below. 

4 Best Bedroom Plants That Remove Air Pollutants 

1.) English Ivy

english ivy plant in bedroom.

English ivy (Hedera helix) is an amicable bedfellow that tolerates dim bedrooms relatively well. Numerous varieties are available, including the miniature “Jubilee,” which can climb up objects to form a living curtain or tumble down bedside tables. There is evidence that they help lower indoor mold and allergen levels. 

2.) Snake Plant 

snake plant in bedroom

The snake plant, also known as Mother-in-law’s-tongue, is distinguished by its sword-like leaves, which also serve as an eye-catching architectural feature. Although, it is said in feng shui that sword-like leaves can bring bad energy. So, use it with caution if you believe in feng shui.

In addition, the snake plant produces oxygen and removes toxins throughout the night, unlike other plants that release carbon dioxide at that time. 

3.) Gerbera Daisies 

gerbera daisy in bedroom windowsill.

Gerbera daisies (Gerbera x hybrid), which are sunflower family members, have sturdy stems, strong leaves, and a wide range of colors. Getting rid of chemical vapors inside gerberas has proven very effective. 

Keep these indoor plants in a cool area with some morning sun for several weeks of blossoming. For best-growing results, keep the soil moist.

4.) Chrysanthemum (Mums)

bedroom with mum flowers

Chrysanthemum spp., also known as mums, are an excellent option for bringing a pop of color into the bedroom, even though they are only short bloomers. However, don’t be deceived by their gentle exterior; these blooming beauties are also a top choice for cleaning the air while you sleep.

Flowers can last up to six weeks and should be kept in a cool, bright area with consistently moist soil. 

Plants You Can Use on a Dresser 

indoor plants on dresser

Create an expression of your sense of style on your dresser. But, pick low-maintenance plants to add ambiance to your space without adding to your busy schedule. 

Go Bohemian 

You can soften bold features and add a relaxed atmosphere by incorporating a large mirror, a vine, or other climbing greenery. You can use clear 3M hooks to affix grape ivy to the mirror’s frame (which is discreet and removable). 

Contemporary Looks

Without being overpowering, subtle patterns and monochromatic colors add layers of interest. To attract attention, combine an unusual plant like the “Ming Thing” cactus with a chic metallic vase resembling a mirror’s design. 

Merge Two Plants For More Effect

Create a sophisticated setting ideal for pampering and indulging by combining softly textural plants—like the delicate beading of the string of pearls and the voluminous tousles of N ‘Joy’ pothos—with statement-making metallic accents. 

Natural Elegance

Think Joshua Tree meets Scandinavia. Try using a monotone plant and accessories, thus, creating contrasting textures, which is essential to generate interest. 

Examples include a woven basket next to a painted ceramic planter and the soft, furry leaves of the panda plant “Chocolate Soldier.”

Plants Enjoy Sleep as Well

Some plants go to sleep at night, believe it or not. Darkness causes this slumbering response, known as nyctinasty. The leaves nod off for the night once the light levels fall. 

The plant will “stir” from its sleeping slate as the sun rises, spreading its leaves to gather energy. 

In addition to closing at night, the touch-me-not plant also responds to even light touch (a response called seismonasty, a defense against predators). 

Keep oxalis and the prayer plant close to your bed, and you and the earth’s rotation will be able to experience its rhythm together.

Bedroom Decor Tip

neon pothos in bathroom

Although it’s common to consider the green of foliage a “neutral” tone, keep in mind that it can also be used to add a splash of color to your space. For more, check out these 20 pothos decoration ideas.

This article was produced by Nature of Home.

Manjula Pothos Plant Care Guide + 4 Common Problems to Avoid

Manjula pothos, also known as Happy Leaf pothos or Jewel pothos, is a tropical houseplant with dark green leaves livened up by splashes of white variegation. It’s one of the most eye-catching variegated pothos plants available, and, despite being a rare plant, it’s surprisingly affordable. 

This variety of pothos was discovered by plant breeder Ashish Arvind Hansoti in a commercial greenhouse in India in 2010. It was officially patented in 2016 and has been a sensation with houseplant lovers ever since.

Care for Manjula pothos is relatively simple. You’ll need to pay attention to watering and ensuring it gets enough light to maintain its lush variegation. 

Keep reading to discover more about its indoor care requirements and which common problems to avoid.

What Is Manjula Pothos?

This variegated plant is a patented pothos cultivar with round, heart-shaped leaves and white, cream, and sometimes silvery-green variegation. Belonging to the Araceae family of Epipremnum aureum, more commonly known as Devil’s Ivy. It has a compact growth habit and short gaps between the leaf nodes.

Making it an excellent choice if you’re looking for a pothos variety that maintains a full, bushy look even after it starts trailing. 

According to the patent documentation, the botanical name for Manjula pothos is Epipremnum pinnatum’ HANSOTI14’

Manjula Pothos Care Guide

We’ll cover some general pothos plant care tips and specific cultivar advice to keep you Manjula pothos living its best life.


This pothos grows best in bright indirect light. Place the plant in a room facing east or west, about 2 – 3 feet away from the window. 

Providing bright light conditions is essential to maintain its variegation and prevent leggy growth. However, avoid direct sunlight exposure, which can burn the leaves and result in dry, brown spots/scorch marks. So, ensure you keep your plant in the correct lighting.


Plant your pothos in a well-draining but moisture-retentive soil mix. A potting mix combination of equal parts universal potting soil, orchid bark, and perlite or pumice will be ideal. 

You can also add some worm castings to give the plant a nutrient boost. 

Finally, adding a handful of horticultural charcoal to your care routine will improve drainage and soil filtration, which will help keep the roots healthy. 


Water your plant when the top 2 inches of the soil feel dry to the touch. Use your finger to test the soil moisture, and water the plant if it feels dry enough. 

Another easy way to tell that your pothos needs watering is when the leaves start to curl.

This pothos is very sensitive to overwatering. If you don’t allow the soil to dry out slightly, the roots will start to rot, potentially killing your plant. 

Constantly damp soil can also become a breeding ground for fungi and bacteria and can harbor the larvae of pests such as fungus gnats.  


Manjula is a tropical plant that grows best in a temperature ranges between 70°F and 84°F (21°C to 29°C). It will struggle to grow if temperatures exceed 90°F (32°C) or if they drop below 59°F (15°C) for more than a couple of days in a row. Making it an ideal indoor plant if you live in a colder climate.

You will also want to prevent exposing your pothos to sudden hot or cold drafts. Avoid keeping it next to a draft window, an air conditioning unit, or a heating vent. 

Drastic temperature changes can make your plant develop drooping stems and sudden wilting.


Pothos Manjula needs a humidity of around 60% for optimal growth. If the air in your home is too dry, try using a humidifier. Alternatively, place the pot on top of a pebble tray to increase humidity naturally.

High humidity can encourage faster growth and larger leaves. However, dry air indoors can result in crispy leaf tips and brown edges. You can also place your Manjula in naturally high-humidity rooms like bathrooms if there are the correct light levels.


Feed your pothos once a month throughout spring and summer with a balanced fertilizer for foliage plants. 

For example, use fertilizer in Manjula pothos soil with an N-P-K nutrient ratio of 10-10-10 or a 20-20-20 fertilizer diluted to half strength. 

Pothos plants enter a brief period of dormancy in winter. So they won’t need any additional feeding. But if you’re using grow lights, you can continue fertilizing them even during the colder, darker months. 


Manjula pothos grows slowly, so you don’t need to prune it too often. Instead, you can trim the yellowing leaves from the bottom of the vines to maintain the plant’s look. 

Also, pruning the longest vines in spring will encourage them to branch out and produce more stems.


Your pothos typically needs to be repotted every 2-3 years. The best time to do this is in spring or summer. 

An easy way to tell if your pothos needs a new pot is by checking the drainage holes on the bottom of the current container. If you can see roots coming out, it means it’s time for an upgrade.

Always keep your Manjula pothos in a pot one size bigger or 2 inches wider than the old container. Also, ensure that the pot has drainage holes at the bottom to ensure that the soil does not become waterlogged, as Manjula prefers well-draining soil.

Manjula Pothos Propagation Guide: Propagate Like a Pro

Create a new plant with Manjula pothos by propagating with stem cuttings. In spring or summer, take a few single-node cuttings and root them in water or sphagnum moss. The cuttings take about 4 to 6 weeks before they’re ready to plant into the soil. 

To give your cuttings the best chance of becoming established, plant them when the roots are at least 2 inches (5 cm) long. 

After transplanting, you can also cover the pot with a transparent plastic bag to create a mini-greenhouse effect that helps the baby plants thrive. 

Check out our complete pothos propagation guide!

4 Common Problems With Manjula Variety of Pothos

1.) Pests 

Common pests for these types of pothos include thrips, scale, mealybugs, and spider mites. These small insects can cause yellowing leaves, discoloration, and stunted growth. 

Check your plant at least once a week for any signs of pests, and use an insecticidal soap solution or systemic pesticide to get rid of severe infestations. 

2.) Brown Leaves

Brown leaf spots can be the result of root rot from overwatering. Brown spots can also indicate that your pothos is receiving too much light. And that the intense sun is scorching the foliage. 

Find out more about the exact cause of pothos leaves turning brown and how to fix it.

3.) Leaves Turning Green

Manjula leaves can revert to all-green variegation if it’s in low light conditions and not receiving enough light. 

Try moving your pothos closer to a brighter window, or maybe add artificial light if you notice these changes in variegation in the leaves.

4.) Small Leaves

Pothos leaves getting smaller can be a sign that the plant needs repotting or that it needs more fertilizer. However, new leaves will naturally become smaller if you don’t give your plant something to climb on, such as a moss pole. 

Manjula vs. Marble Queen Pothos

Manjula pothos and Marble Queen plants vary primarily in their leaf structure and place of origin; Manjula pothos leaves are curly and frilly. 

The Manjula color is like the Marble Queen and N’Joy pothos combined. Marble Queens leaves have a splash pattern in cream, green, and white shades. 

Marble Queen has faster plant growth, but both plants are easy to care for. 

Manjula vs. Pearls and Jade Pothos

Manjula pothos looks to have larger and softer leaves than Pearls and Jade. Manjula leaves are also wavier.

FAQ About the Manjula Pothos Plant

Is Manjula Pothos Toxic?

The Manjula plant is toxic to both humans and pets. If ingested, the calcium oxalate crystals in the stems and leaves can cause painful mouth and throat irritations, difficulty breathing, and gastrointestinal problems. 

So, keep the plant out of reach of children or pets.

What Is a Mutant Manjula Pothos?

Mutant Manjula is a naturally-occurring mutation of the Manjula pothos. It has narrow, elongated, dark green leaves with a white stripe down the middle. 

The University of Florida bred the plant, which appeared on the houseplant market in March 2022. Unfortunately, it is incredibly rare and costly.

According to unofficial sources, the plant was not intended for public release because it’s challenging to grow and not viable for commercial production. 

To this day, it’s still unclear how it escaped from the University of Florida greenhouses. 

What’s the Difference Between Manjula and Harlequin Pothos?

Manjula and Harlequin pothos are the same plant. Harlequin is more variegated, with white leaves, a few green streaks, and speckles. 

If you give your Manjula more light, it will eventually turn into a Harlequin pothos. 

Final Thoughts & Care Tips

While Manjula pothos care is simple, finding it in plant shops can be challenging. Keep the plant out of direct light, don’t overwater, and give it the soil and temperature the plant likes. If you can find the Manjula, you won’t be disappointed!

This article was produced by Nature of Home, and syndicated by healing-water.org.

The Puzzling Snake Plant Flower: What It Means + How to Get Yours to Bloom

People love snake plants due to their low maintenance, sharp, pointed leaves, and ability to survive indoors and out (depending on the USDA growing zone).

Many homeowners are often puzzled to see a snake plant flower. While it is often a rare sighting and usually only happens once a year (typically in the spring), it does happen. Although, it is possible to have one never flower at all. This could be because of the variety you have or growing conditions.

This article will cover the meaning of flowering snake plants, their appearance, how to make your plant bloom, and what happens afterward. We will also cover some safety info you won’t want to miss.

Meaning of a Flowering Snake Plant

Most people think flowering is a good thing. But, that is not always the case. For example, when snake plants are in bright lighting and have minimal water, they often get stressed. This causes the plant to think it might be dying due to drought. 

So, it then starts to create flowers that turn into seeds. The seeds will then take root, and the species will continue to grow.

Is It Lucky?

Getting a snake plant to flower is not common, so yes, it can be a lucky sign that yours bloomed. But, more so, these plants are considered good luck because of their ability to filter toxins from the air rather than flowering.

Some people even think with the good luck associated with snake plants; the plant will attract money. If this is your goal, you should check out the Money tree. It has more meaning to money than a snake plant.

What Do They Look Like?

snake plant flower blooming

A long flower stalk is typically seen when a snake plant starts blooming, covered in flower buds that grow in clusters with thin petals. These flowers look like honeysuckle or small lily flowers. The evergreen perennial can grow as tall as 3 ft high with erect flower stalks or spikes; however, some snake plants don’t produce stalks. 

Instead, their flowers grow in clusters at the base of the plant. Depending on the species of snake plant, color varies. Meanwhile, there are about 70 species of snake plants. The flowers of Dracaena trifasciata are usually cream and greenish-white. 

Other varieties are white, yellow, light green, or white with lavender. While snake plants rarely bloom, when they do, their blooms are usually striking and fragrant.

How Often Does a Snake Plant Flower?

As earlier stated, snake plants seldom bloom, and it happens once a year, especially in spring. The flowers can last a few weeks, producing berries before they die. While it can flower yearly, you can’t tell when it will bloom, and a rosette that has previously borne flowers will not produce more flowers. 

Each blooming season begins with flowers growing on a new stalk. After blooming, you can prune the stalk from the plant’s base. Doing this will help the plant maintain a neat appearance.

Are The Flowers Fragrant?

Snake plant flowers have a strong fragrance at night, and this is due to blossoms closing during the day and opening in the dark. They usually release a spicy vanilla-like scent which is inconspicuous, and this fragrance varies among species. 

Moreover, flowers produce sweet, sticky nectar that trickles down the stem as dew drops.

Is Flowering Bad?

Generally, a snake plant flowers when it’s mildly stressed, neglected, and root-bound. 

While blooming is rare and induced by stress, you may assume that flowering is bad for your snake plant. However, there are no studies or facts about flowering harming them.

How to Make Snake Plants Flower

flowering snake plant

While snake plants are tolerant and thrive under harsh conditions, they may not blossom. You can induce flowering in snake plants by keeping them in a root-bound stage, reducing watering, and exposing them to lots of sunlight. 

The following factors can stimulate flowering in snake plants.


Bright, indirect light favors the blooming of snake plants. As much as possible, avoid exposing the plant to direct sunlight since this can be detrimental to the plant’s growth. If you’re growing the plant indoors, it’s best to place it close to the window or in the corner of your room.


Snake plants are succulent plants that store water in their leaves and require a small amount of water to thrive. Regular watering can cause the plant to rot; only water once a week and less during winter. Allow soil dry in between before watering again. 

Also, since it’s their growing season, you might need to water the Dracaena plant more during spring and fall. You should grow your plant outdoors if you reside in a tropical region as they receive abundant rainfall. 

Ensure the soil is well-drained so roots don’t become waterlogged.


Dracaena plant adapts well to tropical climates. They require moderate temperatures to thrive, so avoid placing plants near the air conditioner or heating vent. 

Also, move plants indoors during winter since freezing temperatures can harm plants, leading to their death. 

Leave the plant indoors till spring while placing it under indirect light. Temperature ranging from 55 – 85℉ is suitable for snake plants.


It is widely believed that snake plants bloom when they’re slightly stressed. Being stressed means they’re not given full attention, are exposed to high light intensity, and watered less. Over time, plants will spread rapidly and become root-bound, allowing new shoots to spring forth. 

Propagation sets in, inducing flowering, but this doesn’t confirm that your plant will bloom when potted because other factors like soil, location, and soil influence flowering. 

On the other hand, pot condition affects blooming; therefore, ensure you grow snake plants in a well-drained pot, preferably a terracotta pot that supports evaporation.


A light, well-drained soil is best suited for growing snake plants, but you can use a potting mix or DIY soil-based medium. While snake plants don’t require many nutrients to grow, adding compost or manure to soil accelerates flowering. 

Ensure you don’t use excess fertilizer as it can negatively affect the plant, leading to death.


There’s no definite age for snake plants to start blooming. Generally, new and young plants rarely flower, but the old plants have a greater chance of blooming under the right conditions. 

Other than this, some plants won’t bloom in the first season even after exposing them to a conducive climate or condition. If you’re looking to grow a snake plant, you should choose a mature one.

Are The Flowers Poisonous?

Although it has little effect on humans, snake plants are poisonous when ingested, causing nausea and vomiting. Snake plants contain saponins, which are used for producing insecticides and fungicides. 

These chemicals are dangerous to humans, making them susceptible to developing allergies. In addition, babies and pets should avoid playing with the plant, especially the flowers, long stems, leaves, and berries.


Will The Plant Die After It Flowers?

While it is true that snake plants typically bloom under stress, as long as you keep taking proper care, they should not die. The blooms will turn into orange berries. 


Saponins – PDF

This article was produced by Nature of Home, and syndicated by healing-water.org.

Baltic Blue Pothos: Plant Care Guide

baltic blue pothos plant.

A trendy new pothos,  called Baltic Blue, is gaining quick popularity. This indoor plant, a cultivar of Epipremnum pinnatum, offers a splash of color to any space and will take center stage once mature. Despite being more uncommon than other cultivars, this plant is excellent for beginners and is a great addition to plant collections.

The color of this plant’s leaves and shape make it unique among other pothos. As the plant develops in the ideal lighting circumstances, a blue tint may be seen on the slender, dark green leaves. Compared to different cultivars, the leaves also split or develop fenestrations early.

Continue reading to discover more about the ideal growth conditions for your Baltic Blue Pothos.

Quick Intro

Despite its name, it is not native to the area around the Baltic Sea. Instead, while visiting a nursery, Mike Rimland of Costa Farms discovered it in Southeast Asia years ago. 

The Baltic Blue Pothos cultivar was introduced by Costa Farms in early 2022 as a member of their Trending Tropicals® plant collection after an additional three years of development and propagation.

Care Guide

This indoor plant grows quickly and requires little care. It is naturally unassuming, can grow in average household temperatures and humidity, and can endure low light. It may also be set to trail downwards or encouraged to climb, making it flexible and adaptable.

Let’s examine this plant’s upkeep in more detail.


This pothos needs just modest amounts of light. Although it doesn’t mind low light levels, strong indirect light is optimum for its growth. Avoid placing it in the sun directly since doing so will cause the leaves to become plain green instead of blue.

East or west-facing rooms, around 3 to 4 feet from a window, are the finest places for your new pothos.


The potting soil for Epipremnum pinnatum Baltic Blue must be well-draining and nutrient-rich. To allow for quick drainage, chunky soil is best. But to keep the plant from withering, it must also retain some moisture.

Costa Farms creates a unique potting mixture for their pothos plants using shredded wood fiber, coco coir, and slow-release fertilizer. Additionally, you may make your soil mix or utilize one already produced for your plant.

All pothos types respond well to an equal soil of general plant potting soil, pumice, orchid bark, or perlite. The bark of the orchid prevents soil compaction and improves drainage around the roots. In addition to enhancing drainage and aeration, perlite and pumice assist in maintaining soil moisture.

To keep the roots strong, sprinkle some horticultural charcoal into your potting soil. You are shielding the roots from damaging fungi and bacteria while assisting plants in absorbing nutrients.


When the soil’s top 2″ feels dry, water. The ideal irrigation technique for this plant is soaking and draining. Slowly fill the pot with water until it begins to trickle through the holes at the bottom.

Doing this releases low-oxygen air pockets in the soil, and the potting mix is ensured to be equally hydrated.

For all pothos kinds, it is preferable to let the soil air out a little between waterings as opposed to keeping it drenched in soil. Baltic Blue Pothos is particularly sensitive to overwatering. Your pothos leaves will turn yellow, and the roots will begin to rot if the soil is too wet.

Remember that frequency of overwatering rather than quantity determines if your pothos gets too much water. Additionally, using soil that is excessively tightly packed may keep the roots moist for an extended period, leading to root rot.


 65°F to 85°F is the temperature range that the Baltic Blue Pothos prefers. Therefore, it will flourish in a typical household environment but fail to grow in environments below 55°F (13°C).

Avoid placing the plant next to a heating radiator, air conditioner, or heating vent, as well as dramatic temperature changes. The plant will be shocked by sudden temperature fluctuations, making it droop and drop its leaves. 

Above USDA growing zone 10, you can plant outdoors. Otherwise, please leave it in a pot outside during the summer. Then, bring it inside when it becomes too chilly.


Although this pothos plant is not fussy about humidity, it does grow best in an environment with humidity levels between 50% and 60%. More significant growth and bigger leaves will reduce moist air, lowering the threat of pests like spider mites.

The most straightforward approach to boost humidity is to place it on a pebble tray. Fill the tray with 50% water or combine it with other plants that like humidity, such as ferns and Calatheas.


During the growth season,  a monthly fertilizer treatment is best. However, you may feed the plant with a diluted liquid fertilizer from early spring through autumn.

In the winter, the plant doesn’t need any nutrients when it goes into a temporary state of dormancy. However, it will continue to produce new growth if you use grow lights throughout the shorter days of the year, and you may continue giving it food each month.

Maintaining and Pruning

The growth rate of these plants is quicker. Regular trimming will help keep its form and give it an outstanding bushy appearance if you’re growing Baltic Blue as a tabletop plant. Propagate the longer stems to grow new plants if the pothos becomes a little leggy.

You may also water every four to six weeks. This aids in cleaning the foliage of dust, removing pests like aphids, spider mites, and flushing out minerals and salts from fertilizer that have accumulated in the soil. After giving your plant a brief shower, let the extra water drain before returning it to the stand.


Every two to three years, they should be replanted. Like every kind of pothos, it doesn’t mind being somewhat root-bound. But if there isn’t enough room for new roots, the plant’s growth will be hindered, and its general health will suffer.

Checking the bottom of the pot is the most straightforward technique to determine when to repot. First, move the plant to a larger container or one 2″ wider if you can see the roots poking through the drainage holes.

If your pothos is rootbound, wait two weeks before repotting. This will allow the plant to acclimate and reduce transplant shock.

Always use a pot with drain holes. You may use any potting material. However, it will affect watering.

Plastic containers keep soil wet longer so you may water the plant less.  However, terracotta pots made of clay are porous and suck up moisture, so the plant dries up more quickly and needs more frequent watering.


Stem cuttings may be used to grow Baltic Blue. First, cut a lengthy vine into single-node portions, then root in soil or water. The cuttings take just three to four weeks to grow roots, at which point you may plant in soil.

For further information, check out Nature of Home’s pothos propagation guide.

Common Issues

Being a hardy plant, Baltic Blue Pothos seldom ever gets attacked by pests or diseases.

But you will encounter typical pests like scale, thrips, mealybugs, and spider mites.

Scale, mealybugs, and spider mites may all be eliminated with a weekly application of a simple solution made of 1 part 70% isopropyl alcohol and four parts water. However, for thrips, a systemic insecticide will provide the greatest results.

The most typical plant care issues are brought on by a mix of frequently watered plants and poorly draining soil.

This will cause root rot, soft, brown areas, and fading leaves. For your pothos, always use a well-draining potting mix for aeration, and do not water it again until the top 2″ is dry.

Leaves Do not Have fenestrations

When a pothos plant reaches maturity, all of its leaves split, but the Baltic Blue variety’s leaves fenestrate sooner than other cultivars. So if your Baltic Blue Pothos’s newest leaves have no holes, it needs something to climb.

Well-defined leaf splits are often the result of using a sphagnum moss pole for climbing.

The Leaves Are Greening

Baltic Pothos leaves lose their blue hue if it receives too much direct sunshine. Therefore, avoid direct sunlight and place far enough away from a window.

Commonly Questions

Is the plant toxic?

Epipremnum pinnatum isn’t on the ASPCA’s list of toxic plants. However, poisonous calcium oxalate crystals are present in pothos plants (Epipremnum).

They result in vomiting, nausea, mouth and throat swelling, and breathing problems when consumed. Always maintain the Baltic Blue Pothos in a secure location away from children and animals.

Is it a rare plant?

Epipremnum pinnatum has a new cultivar called Baltic Blue Pothos. Even though it is less frequent than Golden Pothos, it is not so uncommon that only ardent collectors may get it.

Early in 2022, Costa Farms produced this cultivar, which is already available in several stores and online marketplaces.

In online groups for houseplants, you may also discover people offering cuttings for sale at reasonable prices.

Cebu Blue vs. Baltic Blue Pothos, what’s the difference?

Baltic Blue and Cebu Blue pothos are both Epipremnum pinnatum cultivars. Their biggest variations are in leaf growth and color.

Cebu Blue has silvery-blue leaves, while Baltic Blue has blue-green leaves. Additionally, Baltic Blue leaves will generate fenestrations before Cebu Blue. Here is an excellent guide for Baltic Blue pothos.